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At Fendi and Prada, Moving Beyond the Shoulder Pad

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Dabei seit: 02.01.2018
Beiträge: 4
Verfasst am: 24.02.2018 04:22 Uhr
At Fendi and Prada, Moving Beyond the Shoulder Pad

MILAN — The shoulder pad is shaping up to be the symbol of the season.

It’s easy to understand, amid #MeToo and Time’s Up; maybe a little too easy. Women to the barricades! Battering-ram them down! Even in the European fashion week city where the discussion has been most muted, perhaps because it has been so muted (despite the fact that Asia Argento, one of the original women to spoke out against Harvey Weinstein, is Italian), the linebacker proportion has become a thing. Let your clothes do the talking for you.

But do designers have to do that with cliches? Think harder, you want to shout at some.

On Thursday, finally, two of them did, wrestling with the ideas of female strength and female identity without resorting to the obvious tropes of another era.

“There’s no need for it to be gigantic,” Silvia Venturini Fendi said before the Fendi show, when the topic of shoulders came up. “It just needs to demonstrate control.” She would know: As the only member of the third generation of her family in the business, she has a lot resting on hers.

So the designer Karl Lagerfeld eschewed false underpinnings in favor of the tidy and exactingly square; trading size for structure. Who doesn’t want some of that in her life?

Little white-collared capelets embroidered like antique handkerchiefs — genteel versions of the superhero standard that also appeared, longer and with a beaded Art Deco argyle for evening — were the focus of swirling mid-calf dresses and coats. Shaggy shearling gave them a feral air; a spread knit over a glazed glen-plaid puffer wrap with matching skirt added a utilitarian warmth. The point was a framework that could support anything — responsibilities, strategic planning, tote bags — that might get tossed on top.

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